BOMBAY | 4TH JULY 2025– A public interest litigation (PIL) has been filed before the Bombay High Court seeking action against global fashion giant Prada for allegedly using a design deceptively similar to Maharashtra’s iconic Kolhapuri Chappal without authorization.
PRADA’S ALLEGED CULTURAL MISAPPROPRIATION
According to the PIL, Prada showcased “toe ring sandals” during its Spring/Summer 2026 Men’s Collection at a fashion show in Milan on June 22. The footwear reportedly closely resembles the traditional Kolhapuri Chappal, a handcrafted product deeply rooted in Maharashtra’s artisan culture.
Filed by five advocates, the PIL argues that Prada’s act constitutes cultural misappropriation and violates the rights of the artisan communities historically associated with Kolhapuri Chappals.
“This action of PRADA infringes the fundamental right to life (Article 21), which includes the right to livelihood and cultural identity of the Kolhapuri Chappal artisan communities,” the plea states.
GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION STATUS OF KOLHAPURI CHAPPALS
The Kolhapuri Chappal is a Geographical Indication (GI) Tagged product, officially granted GI status on May 4, 2009, under Application No 169 in Class 25 (Footwear). It was renewed in 2019 and is valid until 2029.
Describing its significance, the plea mentions:
“Handcrafted footwear, produced using traditional methods passed down over generations in the region of Maharashtra.”
The PIL highlights that making a pair of Kolhapuri Chappals involves specialized skills and a time-intensive process, often taking four to five weeks to complete each pair. The footwear reflects countless hours of meticulous labor by artisans who have preserved this traditional art form for nearly 800 years.
VIOLATION OF RIGHTS AND CULTURAL IDENTITY
The petitioners allege that Prada’s designers failed to acknowledge the Indian origins of the footwear and did not credit the artisans who have been creating them for generations. Instead, Prada sold the sandals under its brand name, reportedly priced at over ₹1 lakh per pair.
“Traditional knowledge, skills, and craftsmanship involved in the making of Kolhapuri chappals constitute intangible cultural assets of the artisan communities of Maharashtra, which cannot lawfully be used, copied or commercialized by third parties without the consent or authorization of the rightful custodians,” the petitioners have submitted.
The plea further invokes Section 22 of the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, arguing that Prada’s actions:
“Undermine the moral and economic rights of the artisans, erodes the cultural identity embedded in the craft and contravenes the objectives of Section 22.”
Additionally, the plea asserts that Prada’s act infringes Article 29(1) of the Indian Constitution, which guarantees the right of any section of citizens to conserve their distinct culture.
RELIEFS SOUGHT BY PETITIONERS
The petitioners have sought:
Directions to restrain Prada from further commercializing and using the Kolhapuri Chappal design.
A public apology from Prada.
Compensation to be awarded to artisan communities for reputational and economic losses incurred.
Directions to the government to frame transparent and appropriate guidelines and constitute a committee for the protection of GI-registered products in international markets.
IMPORTANCE OF PROTECTING ARTISAN RIGHTS
According to the plea, the misappropriation of traditional crafts like the Kolhapuri Chappal directly threatens the livelihood, dignity, and cultural identity of local artisan communities. The petitioners argue that international fashion houses must respect the intellectual and cultural property of indigenous communities, rather than exploiting it for commercial gain.
